Well, I wanted to follow up that great Saturday ride with a Sunday Ride. I was "jonzing" to get back on the trusty steed once again.
But that little voice said, check the waves, check the surf. You should into the water today. I wasn't really up for the "auto" drive after that wonderful Saturday but I just followed my inner voice, beside there was a great summer swell in so that pushed me over the edge.
The weather was perfect. As my body skidded out into the surf on my bodyboard I was immediately glad I had made the trip. The surf was about 6', warm water with long rollers that made their way to tube filled shorbreak. When you could connect the outside and inside sections you had 100 to 150 yard rides.
I snowboard, have skated and surfed but body boarding is my true love. It is one of the purest ocean sports, easy to learn but takes a lifetime to master. The greats thing is that you can have fun in any type of conditions.
After about an hour I noticed a bodysurfer in the line-up. He was catching large left handers and riding them just as well and as far as all the surfers and bodyboarders. I thought wow, who is this guy? As I focused in from about 25 yards away I knew it was "Mike Stewart".
For those of you unfamiliar with Mike Stewart, he was the undisputed number one bodyboarder before the World Tour was established. He is a 9 time World Champion and has won the Banzai Pipeline Pro a record 11 times. He is also a 10 time Pipeline Bodysurfing Classic champion. He's also was awarded "Mister Pipeline" for being the best wave rider of any kind and the only non-surfer to achieve that title.
Best of all he is really down to earth and all around "cool guy"!
http://www.mikestewart.com
Needless to say it was pleasure to meet him again as we had met years ago. A coincidence had brought us together and I was glad I had listened to that 'little voice".
We talked in between waves and I pushed myself harder on the waves to to do better. The best moment came when an exceptionally "high roller" came in and he pleasantly said "do you want to share this one?" Heck yeah!
He took off cutting the top of the wave working the quickness of the thrusting lip as I dropped in and bottom turned looking at him about five feet above and over me. He was skimming the top of the wave so lightly, he looked as dolphin does leading the bow of a boat - amazing. I kept up with him giving him space and continuing my "drive down the line". The wave was a avery long ride.
We kept up for a few more and then he was off.
California days as they were meant to be lived. All in those moments. For all time.
Now back to the Ducati.
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